American-expedition-vehicles Tummy Tucker – TJ Rubicon models Manuel d'utilisateur Page 10

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Installation Instructions: Tummy Tucker™ – TJ Rubicon models
Nth30116 v4.doc page 10 of 13 www.aev-conversions.com
DO NOT use a torch or plasma cutter, etc. to clearance the isolator housing because you will light the
rubber on fire and need a new shifter cane!
remains close to stock if you use a drop TT with a motor mount lift.) Both your operating angle and ideal
nominal length are affected by installing a TT because it raises the rear output by about 1.25”.
Generally installation of a TT does not require a longer driveshaft than the one already installed. The
only TT installation that does not require a custom ‘CV’ driveshaft is on Rubicon TJ’s with ZERO
suspension lift. For all others, it is assumed that a proper length ‘CV’ driveshaft is installed, but you will
now need to readjust the rear axle pinion angle higher with the TT versus with the stock skid plate. This
adjustment requires the use of an Nth° Stinger™ or Nth° adjustable rear upper control arms (or others
that may have come with your lift kit.) Ideal pinion angle is usually about 1.5+/-0.5 degrees ‘flatter’ than
the drive shaft’s angle.
Once you have readjusted the pinion angle, you should measure the relative angle between the
driveshaft and the powertrain (t-case) – this is the ‘operating angle’ of the double Cardan joint. You can
get a powertrain angle from various places such as the driveshaft output flange or engine damper pulley,
but do not use the engine or transmission oil pans – they are not accurate enough. The double-Cardan
joint on your custom rear drive shaft cannot run vibration-free if its operating angle is over 22 degrees. If
it is, you will likely need to make changes to solve vibrations – consult the appendix for more information.
Step 18: Shifter Clearance Modification – ‘04+ Manual Transmission Vehicles Only
. Late in the 2003
model year, Jeep and New Venture Gear changed the design of the shifter cane isolator, so the following
procedure applies to all ‘04+ models and a few ’03 Wranglers (if you are using a 1.25” drop TT with a
body and motor mount lift, you probably will not require this step).
Like the old design, the new shifter ‘cane’ has a large rubber isolator encased in a metal housing,
but the new design can be identified by the fact that this isolator is in front of the main shaft (instead of in
line with it), and attaches via a bolt down the center of the isolator. With the TT installed, this new
oversized-and-forward-mounted isolator will hit the surrounding plastic of the center console when the
trans is in 1
st
, 3
rd
, and maybe even 5
th
gears – this will cause the transmission to ‘pop’ out of these gears
under high-rpm load unless corrected.
To correct the issue, first loosen the shifter boot base from the center console by gently
squeezing the plastic frame at the base of the boot in the center of the front and back surfaces until it
comes free. You will now be able to see where the interference occurs when you place the trans in 1
st
gear – mark this area on the front side of the shifter isolator’s metal housing. Next, remove the upper
portion of the shifter along with the isolator by removing the vertical bolt that goes down through the top
of the isolator. Use any type of grinder to create a ‘window’ in the front of the housing and into the rubber
approximately ¼” deep - this will not adversely affect the function of the isolator or its integrity, but will
provide the needed clearance as shown in figure 16. Once clearanced, reinstall the shifter for the next
step, but reinstall the boot after the test drive.
Step 19: Test Drive
. Once all fasteners are properly torqued and all supports removed, test drive the
Jeep to check for vibrations or clearance issues, but before you start the engine, make sure to check for
clearance between the engine cooling fan and the bottom of the shroud. If the fan is ‘stuck’ on the
shroud or very close to it (under ¼”), go to the appendix for the solution first.
When you start the engine, you may notice 3-4 ‘jolts’ just as the engine starts running. This is
normal and is a result of the new dual-mount system you installed with the TT. It is a small trade-off for
the additional control over powertrain motion that the dual mounts provide -which in turn keeps the
trans/t-case position under control so that they don’t knock against the tunnel, TT, etc. Once running,
you should not feel or hear any new ‘buzzing’ or rattling. If you do, this indicates contact between the
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